What is socialising your puppy? Well it’s different for different dog owners and puppies, depending on the life they are going to live with you. But one thing it isn’t is introducing your puppy to as many people and dogs as possible. Not only, at some point is your puppy going to have a negative interaction with a dog (a lot of dogs don’t like puppies, or have reactivity issues), it can cause issues later on in life. A puppy must learn from a young age that they must not run up to ever dog or person they see, it causes frustration when they are older and not allowed to do that, or they may get harmed if they run to an aggressive dog.
For my dogs, it is about introducing them to the way of life they are going to lead with me. As agility dogs, they need to handle being in a crate in the car, as they will be driven often to training sessions, shows and they also come to work with me. They must be able to settle in the crate and not mind other dogs training. They need to get used to the noises, people and the busyness of shows and training. But they also need to be confident when out on walks and when meeting other people, but also learn to only approach dogs or people when allowed. Think about what skills your puppy will need when they are adult dogs and start implementing them as soon as you can.
WHAT IS NEEDED FOR SOCIALISATION?
A good tip is quality not quantity of socialising. So your puppy will need to see (not necessarily meet) people, but it is better for your puppy to meet a few people of different ages, such as children and elderly people rather than taking them to a big event where there are hundreds of people. Allow your puppy the time to watch people, but stop if they begin to react. Remember, joggers, cyclists, other dogs, horses or animals, pushchairs, prams etc are all different to your puppy and need to be introduced to your puppy carefully. All dogs have innate instincts to chase or bite, especially when something is moving, so a puppy needs to learn to control that prey drive around other animals and people.
Sights, sounds, smells and textures are also just as important. Try and let your puppy experience these things, but always at their pace. If your puppy is smelling something, give them the time to smell it and figure out what it is. Let them observe, let them listen, remember they have probably seen or heard something for the first time and it is good for them to be curious.
1. KEEP YOUR PUPPY SAFE
Always make sure your puppy is on a collar or harness that they can’t escape from. There’s a good chance something will spook your puppy at some point when they are out, so make sure they can’t run away.
Distance is always your friend, if a puppy is getting overwhelmed, then take it away to a safer place.
2. BE CONFIDENT FOR YOUR PUPPY
If you approach a situation calmly and confidently, then there’s a good chance your puppy will as well. If a dog starts barking at your puppy, then calmly lead them away, using treats if necessary to a safer place. If you pick your puppy up and you respond with fear or aggression, this will show your puppy there is something to worry about.
3. DISTANCE IS YOUR FRIEND
As already mentioned, distance is one of the greatest tools for worried dogs. Allow your puppy to observe from a distance if they are worried by something. If they are happy to go closer then go closer, but do this gradually at a speed your puppy is comfortable with.
4. CAN YOUR PUPPY TAKE FOOD OR PLAY WITH A TOY?
If your puppy is not taking treats from you when you are out and about, this is a good indication, that they are over threshold. Your puppy is actually too worried or scared to be able to take food. This is when you need to think about calling it a day for that session and going home, or taking your puppy away from the situation and giving them some space. The same goes for toy play. If your puppy does not want to play, then they need some time away from the situation.
5. ALWAYS LET YOUR PUPPY SET THE PACE
Just because you think there isn’t anything to be scared of, your puppy can be. Don’t just walk them over to something if they don’t want to. Flags are often something my dogs find scary to begin with. By allowing them time to assess and work out it isn’t a danger they eventually become curious and want to get closer. By using treats and an encouraging voice they often approach it of their own accord. If they don’t want to, then I teach them to just walk past it, and it is something that I just want them to ignore.
So remember when socialising your puppy, give them a variety of experiences, don’t just focus on meeting as many dogs as possible. All the senses need to be involved, smell, taste, touch, noise as well as sight. So take your puppy to places that have different surfaces for them to walk on, different noises for them to hear. Try to expose them to variations of the same thing, so different dog breeds and sizes, different types of people, people wearing different clothes (hats and umbrellas are often scary) rather than hundreds of the same type. Have fun, and don’t over whelm your puppy, always go at their speed and allow them to observe from a distance.
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